Introducing: The Bulgari Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater

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Quick Take

The world’s thinnest wristwatch minute repeater movement is Bulgari’s caliber BVL 362 Finissimo, which heretofore has only been used by Bulgari in the company’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. Such a flat movement lends itself to many interpretations, however; the Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater is the first time the firm’s used the movement in a traditionally styled ladies’ timepiece.

Bulgari Diva's Dream Minute Repeater

Why This Watch Matters

Watches created specifically with the intention of embodying a traditional notion of femininity are not generally graced with record setting examples of high complications. The Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater is an example of a relatively rare kind of watch: a ladies’ watch with a very feminine design and very decorative purpose which not only cuts no corners in the movement, but actually uses one of the most extraordinary complicated movements on the market today. The dial is decorated with Japanese urushi lacquer, sprinkled with gold dust (the technique is known as maki-e).

Bulgari Diva's Dream Repeater closeup

Initial Thoughts

This is a quite impressive new outing for Bulgari. The movement is a major technical accomplishment; at just 3.12mm thick, the hand-wound caliber BVL 362 impressed us very much when it first appeared in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater. (Our Hands On, with live recording, is right here.) That watch, however, is not exactly an example of a classically feminine design, with its modernist, eight-sided case and grey-on-grey color scheme. 

The Diva’s Dream repeater is very much something else, and is as lushly and overtly beautiful as the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is full of post-modern urbanity. The 37mm case takes an open fan as the inspiration for its lug shape, with another, smaller fan dangling from the slide for the minute repeater. Rather than titanium (as seen in the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater) the case is made of pink gold, which has long had a reputation as the best material overall for minute repeater cases, with the addition of copper to gold adding warmth to the tone of the repeater, and improving the ability of the case to act as a sound board for the chimes inside. And, huzzars, there is a display back, allowing you to admire the movement.

Movement Bulgari Diva's Dream Minute Repeater
Bulgari caliber BVL362

The Bulgari caliber BVL 362 Finissimo, 3.12mm thick.

The sound of the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was quite good for a watch using such an extremely flat movement – this was helped by the use in that watch of titanium for the case and dial. Titanium also offers good acoustic properties for repeaters but the tone is very different from pink gold, which makes us wonder if the Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater might not be able to give its older sibling a run for its money in the sound quality department. Activation of the strike is in the usual fashion, via a slide in the case (decorated with a miniature stylized fan, in this instance).

Bulgari Diva's Dream Repeater Slide

The dial is decorated with Japanese lacquer, which is known as urushi, and which has a history spanning thousands of years in Asia. The lacquer is derived from the (somewhat toxic) sap of the Japanese sumac and the art’s been practiced in Japan since about the 8th century AD. The technique of using gold, or gold dust, bound in layers of transparent lacquer, is called maki-e (it’s a favored finish for high-end writing instruments from Japan) and it’s very durable and permanent, making it an excellent choice for a watch dial both from a decorative arts, and a durability standpoint.

This watch will be shown again at Baselworld and we’re looking forward to following up with some live pictures and hopefully, video and audio; I’m very curious to hear it in person. Incidentally if you’re going to be in Miami next weekend for Miami Watches & Wonders, Bulgari will be having an exhibition, at which Pascal Legendre, their Grand Complications Supervisor, will be present. There will be a full house of Bulgari chiming complications on hand including the Diva’s Dream, as well as the Octo Minute Repeater, Magsonic Grande Sonnerie, and we will have a Carillon Tourbillon as well.

The Basics

Brand: Bulgari
Model: Diva’s Dream Minute Repeater

Diameter: 37mm
Case Material: 18k rose gold; lugs snow set with brilliant cut diamonds
Dial Color: Black and gold urushi lacquer
Indexes: Brilliant cut diamonds
Lume: Surely you jest
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator with diamond-set 18k pink gold folding clasp

Bulgari Diva's Dream repeater glamour shot

The Movement

Caliber: BVL 362 Finissimo
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, minute repeater chiming on demand
Diameter: 28.5mm
Thickness: 3.12mm
Power Reserve: 52 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Additional Details: At the time of writing, this is the world’s flattest repeater movement

Pricing & Availability

Price: $187,000
Availability: Currently available
Limited Edition: Five pieces

For more, visit Bulgari online.

Source: http://ift.tt/1IiKaDm

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