Hot on the heels of the new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel, is the Heritage Black Bay Steel And Gold, the reference 79733N. That’s right, you heard it here first people, two-tone is back. And no one is safe, not even your faithful Tudor dive watch. The Black Bay S&G, as it is so lovingly called, is pretty much the same Black Bay that you are familiar with, but with some aesthetic updates and an interesting take on the two-tone treatment.
First off, this watch starts with the standard 41mm stainless steel Black Bay case. Nothing different there. However, things get interesting when you get to the bezel and crown, which are both gold. That gold is not a PVD coating – it’s actually much more old-school than that.
Tudor has opted for what it calls "gold-capped" components, but what you might know this technique from the vintage watch world as "gold-fill." We could get into the gritty details of how this is done, but what you need to know is that the result is a thicker, more durable layer of gold. In the case of the crown, there’s .6mm of gold, and in the case of the links there is .25mm of gold. Both the end links and the bezel are solid gold.
The bezel has a black insert that is calibrated to 60 units (standard diver stuff here), crown has a black lacquered Tudor rose and black tube, making it pop against the steel case. Much like the Black Bay Steel, the new S&G’s bracelet is riveted, much like the bracelets from the 1950s and 1960s. The watch is also available with a leather strap.
Another addition to the Black Bay S&G is the caliber MT5612, which is the same caliber used in the new Black Bay Steel and the Pelagos released in 2015. It’s Tudor’s three-hand-with-date manufacture caliber – it features a silicon balance spring and is COSC-certified. Over the last year, Tudor has transitioned all the standard Heritage Black Bay models over to manufacture movements and new introductions like this are coming with them from the start.
The Tudor Black Bay Steel And Gold retails for $4,975 on a bracelet and $3,775 on a leather strap (both coming with an additional fabric strap too, of course). It will be available beginning in May. For more, visit Tudor online.