This year is the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut, and to celebrate Patek Philippe has created the ref. 5168G. Originally the Aquanaut was made in stainless steel and with a black dial, very much playing the part of a casual sports watch. Well, this model changes all that, with a hefty white gold case and a striking blue dial.
Now, don’t get me wrong, this isn’t a dressy Aquanaut by any means. It is, however, a very different watch from the Aquanaut you’re probably familiar with. How exactly?
To start, the 5168G has a 42.2mm case made of solid white gold. Contrast that with the 40mm steel case of the 5167A, and you’ll immediately realize this is a different beast. The proportions and styling remain intact however, so you get the same lines and the same mix of polishing on the edges and brushing on the top of the bezel. This is the first white gold Aquanaut, though both the ref. 5167 (time and date) and the ref. 5164 (travel time) are available in rose gold.
Then there’s the dial. Instead of an even black, there is a beautiful blue gradient that turns black at the very edges. It definitely pulls you in and begs for a closer look. You get the same Arabic numerals in white gold, with white gold luminous markers, and at three o’clock is the familiar white date display too. Overall, the dial stands out as the best thing about this watch.
Powering the watch is the caliber 324 SC, the same three-hand date movement that can be found in the 5167A. That means that with the bigger case you get a look at a relatively small movement through the sapphire back. It would have been nice to see a new or updated caliber here (or a 40mm watch), rather than a larger watch with the same movement.
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5168G is not a limited edition and is priced at $38,557.
For more, visit Patek Philippe online.