Friday Live: With Paul Boutros From Phillips Auction House With Highlights From Winning Icons

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It’s been a busy week here at HODINKEE, and we are excited to say that tomorrow is Friday, and you know what that means – Friday Live! This week we have two very exciting guests. First we have Paul Boutros, Head of Americas & International Strategy Advisor at Phillips Bacs and Russo, who is heading up the first ever New York-based Phillips auction. You may remember Paul from his previous contributions to HODINKEE for our Three on Three on a dress watch under $20,000 and his three-part dissection of the modern Rolex Daytona. Our second guest is Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, who is coming up for auction at Phillips a week from today.

paul newman's paul newman

Paul Newman’s Paul Newman. 

But enough about Paul Newman’s Paul Newman – we will also be talking to Paul about a selection of interesting highlights from the Phillips auction including an early Rolex, a very rare Vacheron Constantin, and something a little more independent. As always, we will save time at the end to answer your questions. So if you have any questions for Paul, please be sure to leave them in the comments section. See you at 1:00pm ET tomorrow. 


New variable fonts from Adobe Originals

Photoshop and Illustrator announced plenty of new features at Adobe MAX this week, include some exciting typographic features we’ve been anticipating: support for OpenType variable fonts.

This new font format allows users to customize the styles within a typeface design, effectively giving them an entire family of fonts in a single file. We’ve included a few Adobe Originals families with this release of Illustrator and Photoshop to make it easier for you to explore what variable fonts can do.

Here’s a quick walkthrough of this week’s typographic updates from the Photoshop team.

Don’t miss the Illustrator announcement, either, which introduces its own nifty typographic controls.

variable font weight adjustment in illustrator

We chose six families to best show what the new format will allow, and how the possibilities may differ from one typeface to another. Five of these are from our Variable Concept font collection, allowing you to play with the full variable design space on some of our most popular Adobe Originals families (although you’ll only have a limited character set for now).

  • Myriad Variable Concept allows you to see how the weight and width styles of Myriad Pro can interact as you adjust each property.
  • Acumin Variable Pro allows you to adjust weight, width, and even the slant angle, combining all of Acumin Pro’s 90 variants in a single dynamic font file.
  • Minion Variable Concept is a special treat — a preview of a major update to the Minion family that will be released in the near future. Although you won’t yet get to see all the features of the new Minion, you’ll be able to adjust its revamped weight and optical size settings with this version.

Acumin, Minion, and Myriad Variable Concept fonts

From the Source superfamily, Source Sans Variable, Source Serif Variable, and Source Code Variable all allow you to play with the weight range in each design, and they also contain the complete character set of the Pro versions.

Source superfamily variable fonts

In addition to using the Source Variable families in Photoshop and Illustrator, you can download them from our GitHub page so you can try them out in other applications and environments as the support for variable fonts becomes more widespread. We’ll keep you posted as that support develops! Check out our roundup of variable fonts news and follow the discussions on TypeDrawers.


Modern Residence in Poland Highlights Floor-to-Ceiling Bookcase

Metaforma Architects completed the design of a modern residence in Poland that displays an interesting geometry. The body of the building consists of two intersecting cubes. The living area is located in the larger one, while the garage and the gym occupy the smaller section of the house.

The facades have been covered with black plaster and cool pigments, and with protection against biological corrosion. “The wood-like composite we chose, unlike natural materials, does not require additional impregnation,” the architects explained. “Dark details in the form of metal window casings and balustrades consistently complete the concept. All these create an interesting three-dimensional effect.”

The layout of this modern residence was planned in tune with the active lifestyle of the owners: the day zone is located on the ground floor, together with the sports room and guest area. The bedrooms are placed on the upper level and offer a high level of privacy.

A generously sized bookcase in the living area adds character to the design scheme. The use of a kitchen island allows the owners to work in the kitchen and keep an eye on the rest of the living room at the same time.

The architects also planned an unusual wine cellar. Wooden pins are placed between the rows of bricks in the wall to store bottles. Here, the residents can take their time selecting their beverage while admiring the available collection visually multiplied by the mirror at the end of the room. Photography and information from PION Fotografia.

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best of: unexpected guests antonia kohl.

vintage decor inside tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

I’m delighted to introduce our next guest and she is Antonia Kohl, the lovely proprietress of Tigerlily Perfumery here in San Francisco. Located along Valencia Street in the city’s Mission neighborhood, this gem is the city’s only boutique dedicated entirely to artisan and niche perfumes, including a deep collection of U.S. indie fragrances and hard-to-find cult favorites from around the world. If you’re looking for a truly unique and signature scent for yourself, a special someone or want to get a better understanding of perfumes, this is the place to visit. Antonia has expertly guided many to discover unique fragrances they wouldn’t have otherwise. I learned so much from her, even participating in a workshop to craft my own personal fragrance. And it’s a fun, casual space to explore and play with so many varieties. It’s amazing how a little spritz or dab of something can bring so much beauty and joy into people’s lives. Before opening Tigerlily, Antonia enjoyed an exciting 20-year career in interactive design and production before launching her new business. This holiday season her shop will celebrate its two-year anniversary. Be sure to pop into Tigerlily next time you’re in SF and in the neighborhood.

vintage decor inside tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

So why perfume?
I’ve always loved perfume! Like most people, smell triggers so many of my memories and influences my moods. Smell can be an underrated sense but it is deeply impactful on both an emotional and physiological level.

vintage perfume bottles / sfgirlbybay

What’s your first memory of perfume?
My first memory of perfume is from early elementary school when a classmate presented me with a pretty porcelain bottle of Tea Rose eau de toilette that he’d stolen from his mother. Although my mom made sure the bottle was dutifully returned, the idea of perfume stuck with me as a treasure and romantic symbol.

industrial caged pendant lamp and vintage decor inside tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

What inspired you to launch your business?
For several years, my husband and I would check out boutique perfume shops when visiting other cities but hadn’t found one just right for us at home. I left the digital world hoping to work on a smaller scale, doing something I love and with the public – perfume was a healthier choice than opening a pub!

vintage mirrored tray with perfume bottles / sfgirlbybay

How should one really go about selecting a perfume?
Explore, sniff and try it on! We really encourage our customers to take the time to smell broadly in order to hone in on what they love and to try on multiple scents to see what works with their skin chemistry. While some people are looking for a signature scent, most are interested in having a variety of fragrances to wear so can also consider mood, season, occasion and self-expression.

We truly believe that the process of selecting a perfume should be fun! At the shop, our customers love to hear about the people, ideas and stories behind each scent. And they definitely enjoy taking home samples to try out!

vintage accessories and perfume on hanging wood box shelves / sfgirlbybay

You always hear about “notes” in perfume. Can you tell us more about them?
Like notes in music, notes are scent components that make up the composition of a perfume. Notes are individual smells, like sandalwood or bergamot, which are combined in layers to create the overall experience of a perfume. Structurally, most perfumes are designed with Top Notes, Heart Notes and Base Notes. The top notes are the first notes you smell after applying a perfume. They are tiny molecules and dissipate quickly. Heart Notes are next and last longer, bridging to the Base Notes, which stick around the longest. Citruses are typical top notes, florals are often found in the heart and base notes tend to be “darker” notes such as amber, sandalwood and vanilla.

mirrored tray with tiny perfurm bottles / sfgirlbybay

Common mistakes people make in buying perfume?
Buying perfume based on a brand name, a review or what it smells like on a test strip are the biggest mistakes people make. Your skin chemistry is the final ingredient in every perfume you wear, so try before you buy! This isn’t a mistake, but I encourage people not to pigeonhole themselves into too narrow of a scent profile, e.g. “I only like woods” or “I hate florals”. Over time and with natural changes in our lives, our tastes and skin chemistry can change. With so many scents and so little time – why not keep exploring?

colorful perfumes in glass jars at tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

You carry artisan and niche perfumes. What is artisan and what is niche?
Good question! To me, niche initially meant scents made by smaller perfume houses and individual perfumers who were able to maintain a high level of quality and creativity because they weren’t beholden to the “bottom-line” demands of the mass market. These days, the term “niche” has become a bit dilute as big brands buy up popular small houses and launch shadow brands to fit into this category, which has risen notably in popularity and has a large international fan base. When I use the term “artisan perfume”, I’m referring to a scent that is handcrafted by an individual perfumer who is not associated with a large brand. Generally this also implies a high-quality product that is made in smaller volume.

vintage accessories and housewares at tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

What are some of these hard-to-find cult favorite perfumes you carry?
We carry many wonderful lines from the United States, including what we believe to be the largest brick-and-mortar collection of West Coast fragrances. In terms of international cult perfumes that are hard to find at retail, here are a few beauties:

Tauer Perfumes: we carry an enticing selection of fragrances by the massively beloved Swiss perfumer, Andy Tauer, including L’Air Du Desert Marocain and Lonestar Memories. Perfumistas also love his new Tauerville line!

Neela Vermeire: a sublime collection from Paris with roots in French perfumery and rare ingredients from India. Neela Vermeire collaborated with famed perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour, to create these highly coveted perfumes, including Ashoka and Mohur, which are tributes to Indian history and culture.

Papillon Perfumery: a new line out of London that exploded onto the perfume scene last year with the niche hits, Anubis, Tobacco Rose and Angelique. This year the perfumer, Liz Moores, added a dirty, vintage-style bombshell, Salome,

red victorian style chair and colorful rugs at tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

What perfume are you currently wearing now?
It’s finally starting to feel like winter so today I’m wearing one of my favorite warm gourmands, Captured in Amber, from En Voyage by Shelley Waddington. It’s chocolate amber with a hint of spice, created here in the Bay Area. This week I’ve also worn the smoky Broken Theories by Kerosene and vintage-y This Grand Affair by Blocki Perfumes.

vintage poetry books with perfume bottles / sfgirlbybay

Any strange fragrance requests from clients?
This may not surprise the serious perfume-heads in the room, but I have been asked for perfumes that smell like “wet dog”, “skunk” and “sweaty s*x”.

antonia kohl of tigerlily perfumery mixing scents / sfgirlbybay

What type of events and workshops do you host?
We love events at Tigerlily! We host trunk shows, fragrance launches and perfume presentations as well as perfumery workshops and classes, including custom blending workshops with well-known San Francisco perfumer, Yosh Han.

vintage interior styling at tigerlily perfumery / sfgirlbybay

So what’s next for Tigerlily?
Lots of changes coming! We’re expanding to take over more of the space at 973 Valencia in January, which will allow us to bring in additional lines as well as to build space to accommodate a packed calendar of events and workshops. We’ll also be working on our ecommerce site, which launched on a small scale and needs tweaking! On the horizon are a unique online sample program, sales and promotions.

vintage perfume bottles, tray and figurines / sfgirlbybay

Other top spots in the Mission one should visit around Tigerlily?
Love & Luxe is not to be missed! Betsy Barron presents her own line alongside a beautiful selection of artisan jewelry lines from around the world, many of which are local, all using precious materials in refined and creative ways.

Lolo is one of our favorite spots to take visiting perfumers to lunch before events. We’re in love with the avocado tacos and mescal margaritas. The atmosphere is kitschy and colorful and the “Jaliscan-Californian” food is seriously fresh, yummy and unpretentious.

Luna Reinne Gallery passionately promotes new and up-and-coming artists from the Bay Area, including three of my favorites, Reuben Rude, Bill Zindel and Jose Arenas. Fun openings!

Paxton Gate doesn’t need the promotion but they are still one of my favorite spots to send out-of-town friends and customers on a Valencia stroll. In addition to their curated collection of curiosities, they host great pop-ups like the Spark Ceramics planter-making workshop (they do beer stein classes too!).

Nooworks makes dresses that are the definition of fun! Owner Jennifer D’Angelo has been a longtime fixture in the Mission District and it’s been inspiring to see how her line has grown and flourished. Not to mention the sales parties with bands and libations.

• all photography by leslie santarina.

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This Heat-Sensitive Edition of Fahrenheit 451 Can Only Be Read by Flame

This week the Anne Petronille Nypels Lab at Van Eyck Academie in the Netherlands shared a video of an edition of Ray Bradbury’s classic Fahrenheit 451 being held up to a flame. The video was not an ironic twist on the book’s overt message of censorship, but rather a demonstration of the experimental work’s hidden capabilities. The book was screen printed by French graphic design collective Super Terrain using heat sensitive ink, which conceals the book’s text behind a layer of black when at room temperature. You can see more of the collective’s experiments with printed matter on their website and Instagram. (via Open Culture)


Mars Base Camp concept art by Adam Burch

Beautiful modeling and renders by our super good friend Adam Burch. High resolution renders.

Mars Base Camp is Lockheed Martin’s concept for sending humans to Mars in about a decade.

Mars Base Camp orbit insertion
Using NASA’s Orion spacecraft as the command deck, the orbiting outpost could give scientists/astronauts the ability to operate rovers and drones on the surface in real time, helping us better understand the Red Planet.

MBC Mars Lab
This illustration shows the pre-deployed Mars Lab and its solar electric propulsion system arriving at Mars.

Mars Base Camp Excursion Module
Using NASA’s Orion attached to an excursion module, scientists/astronauts can go to the moons of Mars, Phobos and Deimos, and study the bodies up close.

Mars Base Camp Orbiter and Landers

Mars Base Camp Lander
The Mars surface lander called the Mars Accent Descent Vehicle (MADV) is a single-stage system that uses Orion systems as the command deck. It could allow astronauts to explore the surface for two weeks at a time before returning back to the Mars Base Camp in orbit around Mars.

Keywords: deep space systems lockheed martin proposed missions to mars concept mars base camp mbc concept illustrations modeling design renders by adam burch hangar b productions llc Source:

TRAFT : Tent and Watercraft In One, You Can Sleep Where You Play

Embrace outdoor adventures, TRAFT can offer you new outdoor experiences with its hybrid tentwatercraft design. You can enjoy both camping and rafting at the same time in this comfortable, modular, packable, and insulated tent-raft. TRAFT team has worked really hard to provide you with durable, lightweight inflatable watercraft that is capable for ocean adventures, enjoy fishing, commuting on water, or any water sports wherever you want. When you are done, you can setup a campsite and use your watercraft as the tent.

Traft Tent and Raft in One

Traft Tent and Raft in One

Traft is made from durable materials that can be packed into a perfect size to fit your backpack. Each unit is designed to provide you with protection on land or calm water, it can be on land tent-raft camping or tent camping independently from the raft. TRAFT hybrid watercraft and tent wants to eliminate the amount of gear that might separate you to enjoy the beauty of nature, you can sleep where you play.

Traft Tent and Raft in One

Traft Tent and Raft in One

Traft Tent and Raft in One

Traft Tent and Raft in One

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Hands-On: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II

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The Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is a classic modern Ball wristwatch: big size, bold styling, an aggressive tool-watch personality and, of course, the signature tritium gas tubes that give Ball watches their ability to maintain high visibility through prolonged periods of darkness. Most other modern watches use Super LumiNova, or a related compound, which has to be charged by ambient light, and which glows with diminishing brightness over time. Tritium, on the other hand, is a radioactive substance (much safer for use in watches than radium) that produces illumination without needing previous exposure to light; as such, it finds uses in many applications in which low light legibility is essential and where materials like Super LumiNova would not be suitable. Other modern applications for tritium gas tubes include aircraft instrumentation and gunsights, as well as numerous novelty applications, like glow-in-the-dark keychains. Before getting into the tritium vials, though, let’s look at the rest of the watch.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II

The Hydrocarbon family of watches from Ball are, in general, their toughest and most tool-watch oriented timepieces, with dive-watch ISO-compliant depth ratings and visibility; most models also feature Ball’s proprietary crown guard system, in which a hinged flange held in place by a pushbutton-actuated lock both protects the crown from being bumped or damaged, and also ensures that the crown is fully screwed down (the lock will not rotate into position if the crown has not been screwed in all the way).

The system offers excellent security for the crown – the one point on most dive watches most vulnerable to the ingress of water, especially if the crown is inadvertently left unscrewed or if the wearer bangs it against something – at the cost of additional complexity. Perhaps equally to the point, it looks cool and gives the owner a way of locking down the crown that scratches the gadget-lover’s itch that so many watch enthusiasts have (in this respect I’m reminded of the locking mechanism for the crown on Panerai Luminor watches, which is also of arguable practicality in the 21st century, but does the same thing in terms of giving you something enjoyable to play with).

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II crown guard closed position

Pressing in the button at the top of the crown-guard releases a pin-latch, allowing access to the crown.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II crown guard open position

Despite its broad-shouldered appearance (the crown guard adds quite a bit to the impression you get, when you look at the Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II, that you’re looking at a watch with some considerable heft) this is not actually an especially big wristwatch: 42mm x 13.5mm. The bezel overhangs the case by at least a couple of millimeters all around the diameter of the watch, however (according to the office calipers, the bezel is about 45mm in diameter) and from bezel edge to the outer edge of the crown guard, we’re at about 50mm. The lugs are fairly long as well; lug tip to lug tip distance is about 53mm. In terms of feel, the Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is similar to a Rolex Sea Dweller, which has an almost identical case side (43mm) but which also has projecting crown guards that add a bit to its perceived size.

One major upside to the considerable bezel overhang, of course, is that operating the bezel is a snap. The bezel, by the way, rotates in two directions, which means that build, crown guard, and depth rating notwithstanding, this is not technically a diver’s watch, as the relevant ISO defining a dive watch (ISO 6425) requires a one-way bezel. The bezel of the Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is there to allow you to read off a third time zone from the independently settable, Freccione-style 24-hour hand. The 24-hour hand can be set forwards only, but as the date display is not synchronized with the 24-hour hand this presents no major issues in terms of setting the time to a second time zone. The 24-hour hand is set by pulling out the crown to the first position and rotating it clockwise; the date can be quickset by turning the crown, in the first position, counterclockwise.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II caseback

As an aid to the disoriented world traveler, the back of the watch is conveniently engraved with a chart showing the offset from Greenwich Mean Time/UTC, of 24 reference cities (although given the still-widespread use of the absurdity that is DST, one is still advised to check local time in that magical interval when you are putting your seat fully upright and stowing your hand luggage for landing). The bracelet and buckle of the Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II, by the way, are superb: very strongly built, with brushed outer and polished inner links, screw fittings rather than the cheaper friction-fit collar-and-pin links seen in many less expensive bracelets, and four—count ’em four—screws holding the solid end-links in place at the lugs. This is not a watch that intends to allow itself to be lost thanks to the failure of a two-dollar spring bar. The double folding clasp closes and locks with considerable authority, and the stolidity of the view once it’s shut is nicely broken up by the rather baroque Ball double-R logo.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II dial closeup

The classic implementation of a GMT complication is found in watches like Rolex’s GMT Master II, which has an hour hand that can be set ahead or behind in one-hour jumps, and with a date display that is coordinated with the hour hand. In such a watch the hour hand is easily set to local time upon reaching one’s destination, without stopping the watch and without having to re-synchronize the minute and seconds hands with a local time reference. 

By contrast, the AeroGMT II, and watches like it, require more steps upon reaching one’s destination: pull out the crown (which stops the watch) re-set the hour and minute hand to the new local time, and push the crown in to the first position. In the first position, re-set the 24-hour hand to home time, and if necessary, re-set the date to the local date. If you wish to track time in a third time zone, operate the two-way bezel as needed. It would theoretically be possible, upon reaching one’s destination, to set the 24-hour hand to local time and leave the hour hand set to home time, but in such an instance one loses the ability to read the time more intuitively from the primary hour and minute hands, and as well, one loses the ability to easily read day or night at home.

These extra steps, however, add at most a minute or two to the re-setting process over a true GMT watch with an independently settable hour hand and are hardly a deal-breaker in terms of getting the utility out of the Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II that it’s designed to give. Legibility, by the way, is everything you could want it to be. This is classic high-contrast, white-against-black tool watch design. However, it’s in darkness – whether that of an anonymous hotel room in a foreign land, an unlit tent somewhere in the trackless wilderness, or the gloom of an aircraft cabin at 36,000 feet over god knows where – that the Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II shines, both figuratively and literally.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II lume shot/night view

There are a total of 43 tritium gas tubes on the bezel, hands, and dial, with contrasting blue Super-LumiNova on the internal 24-hour scale. If you’re like me and take a childlike delight in things that glow in the dark, boy, are you gonna like the Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT. 

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II wrist shot

The Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is a limited edition of 1000 pieces. The price is quite reasonable, at $3,090 ordered direct from Ball; for someone looking for a big, bold, fun, tough sports watch with a lot of personality, it’s actually something of a bargain, especially in this day and age (it’s a COSC certified chronometer to boot). A great alternative to many of the more expensive GMT/dual-time-zone watches out there, and a great value offering from Ball.

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II: movement, Ball RR1201-C, ETA 2893-2 base; COSC certified chronometer; hours, minutes, independently set-able 24 hour hand with date. Indications for up to three time zones. Water resistance, 100m; antimagnetic to 4,800 A/m. Case, stainless steel with dome shaped sapphire crystal. 43 tritium micro-gas tubes. Find out more at


How We Got Smooth Textured Walls on a Budget

Let’s talk drywall finishing shall we? I had my heart set (or so I thought) on perfectly smooth walls. As you know I’m trying to keep the Merc as time-period true as possible. So in 1928 when it was built, they used plaster walls with minimal texture.  Going the route of plaster walls would have been an expensive tedious and unnecessary process. Drywall was definitely the way to go, but I still wanted the finish to be smooth.

(Real renovation life perfectly captured above)

Uncompromisingly smooth. That is, until I got schooled on a few things.

  1. The cost. Though I didn’t get an actual formal bid for it, my contractor estimated that it would be about 3-5x the regular cost to do a completely smooth finish. WUUUUUUUUT. (I’m wicked jealous of all of you east coasters that get smooth walls standard.)
  2. They sort of still show everything. Picture your postpartum body in a super tight dress.

    I know I know, just go with me on this.

    A smooth texture is like wearing spanx. Yes it helps a lot, you may have smoothed out the texture, but the general shape isn’t going to change all that much. With smooth textured walls, if the walls have any sort of wave or bulge from the framing (which they most likely will cause boards aren’t always straight) that will still be there.


  3. There’s a great compromising finish called Old World that made me a believer that we could have the best of both worlds.
  4. A quick google image search shows a huge range of what Old World texture looks like and none of them look like mine.

    The finisher knew that I wanted the walls almost smooth, so he did a couple of test spots so that I could see what my finish options were. I chose the one with the least amount of variation and they got to work.

    We used this finish on the walls and ceiling, you can see in the below picture where the mud is thinner (because it already dried) and how there is definitely texture, but its not everywhere. (The big color variation is because the mud is still wet, when its dry its almost impossible to see in pictures.)

    See how there are little spots that the drywall peeks through? That’s where the Old World style kicks in.

    When its dry it looks like this:

    Can I just say how hard it is to take a picture of a white-ish wall that has nothing for the camera to focus on? Dang.

    Another key factor in the visibility of wall texture is the sheen of paint that you are using. The higher the sheen, the sharper the shadows are, which makes the texture more visible. Interesting right?

    We are using MY FAVORITE Sherwin-Williams Emerald Matte for all of the walls so the visible texture is significantly minimized. The important thing when using a low sheen paint is to make sure that its high quality, often times the lower the sheen, the less scrubbable, but Emerald is the best of both worlds. We’ll dive deeper into paint in a couple of weeks but its a fascinating world!

    Inquiring minds want to know, what type of drywall texture do you have in your house? And how do you feel about it?




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