You are probably familiar with the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde. It could easily be called the brand’s flagship watch and it’s characterized by those expansive enamel dials with the unusual figure-eight display. Well, at Baselworld 2017 Jaquet Droz upped the ante with the Grande Seconde Moon Phase, a trio of models that adds a new complication to the collection. This is a welcome and well-executed addition, so let’s take a closer look.
The new Grande Seconde Moon is available in three versions: stainless steel with opaline dial, stainless steel with Onyx dial, and 18k red gold with off-white grande feu enamel dial. The dials features the same figure-eight configuration, with the hours and minutes displayed on the top smaller dial and the moonphase on the bottom dial along with the date and the running seconds.
The case measures 43mm, which is rather large but not abnormal for the Grande Seconde. These are almost always bigger watches. The Grande Seconde is best known for the multi-layered dials with elegant features integrated into the basic layout. The Moon Phase is no different. As mentioned, the date and running seconds are shown gracefully on the outer edges of the bottom dial, right where they are on other Grande Seconde watches, while the moonphase is shown in a large aperture that occupies the top half of that register. For the onyx version, the moonphase disc is also made of onyx, while the enamel and opaline dial models have a blued steel disc. Likewise, on the two models with steel cases, the stars and moon are made of white gold, while the red gold watch has matching red gold stars and moon. In both cases, the stars are made of 18k gold and the moon itself is made of 22k gold.
The watch is powered by the the Jaquet Droz caliber 2660QL3, an automatic movement with silicon hairspring and two barrels. It has a 68-hour power reserve, but the most impressive thing is the fact that the moonphase (if set correctly) only needs to be adjusted by one day every 122 years and 46 days. It has what Jaquet Droz calls the "mechanism 135," which is a 135-tooth gear that enables this level of accuracy. The more basic and more typical way of creating a moonphase display is with a 59-tooth gear, but that loses one day every two years, seven months, and 20 days. However, one should note that the "mechanism 135" is not a new phenomenon and not specific to this watch.
The Jaquet Droz Moon Phase in steel with opaline dial retails for $15,200, the steel with Onyx dial is $17,300 (and only available in boutiques and Swatch Group’s Tourbillon stores), and the red gold with enamel dial is $28,900. For more, visit Jaquet Droz online.